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You are currently viewing the Whisky category or one of its subcategories. If you aren't clear as to what Whisky actually is, perhaps you should read a definition (Though you may want to brush up on your Scots before you do, in which case Whisky will be very helpful anyway). If you would like to see more reviews, I suggest you start here.

I tend to grow excited and wax lyrical when I talk about Whisky (as you might have concluded yourself from the reviews below), so I will limit myself to saying that I believe it to be one of the most special and wonderful drinks in the world, and that I'm quite sure that, if there is indeed a God, Whisky must be the last thing he made before resting.



Monday, August 20 2007

MacKillop's Choice

Price
Approx. $40/750ML
Bought at
Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation (Halifax)

MacKillop's Choice is the other great buy I snatched about the time of my birthday. This is a 14 year old cask strength, single cask bottle produced at the Longmorn Distillery, from which I have unfortunately not tasted any other malts.

Though one has to compensate for the higher alcohol content, once it is done, the smells perceived are surprisingly mild and tantalising, softly woodsy, with pine and cherrywood, overlaid with sweet herbs and just the slightest whiff of smoke. The impression one is left the slightest inkling of smoke on the air. The impression one is left with is that of standing in the forest with smoke drifting from a distant campfire for which one is perhaps seeking dead wood at this very moment, while a gentle mist is beginning to frost the surrounding leaves. The taste begins off with many of the elements described in the smell, the arboraceousness, for one thing, and a little of the smoke, as well as other flavours. The start is fairly sweet with creamy malt and prickles of licorice and roasted fennel to give it a certain piquancy as well as prevent the sweetness from getting out of hand; it carries a certain dewy, leafy freshness with it, like that found at the bank of a brook on a hot Autumn day. When we reach mid-palate, the taste shifts and the sweetness is further tempered by the emergence of a certain bitterness, being partly that of oak and partly of black chocolate, combined with a taste of roasted nuts which increases the richness of the drink and leads into a quiet, but profound climax. The finish is a dignified merger of these tastes, with a return to the foreground of leafiness along with the stalwart presence of bittersweet chocolate: one can literally taste both the malt and the cask in that finish, and enjoy their union.

This is quite a magnificent Whisky in a restrained, meditative way. It is quite mild, despite its high alcohol content, but demonstrates a richness and balance which is extremely compelling. In fact, this falls within the category of drinks I would like to have on hand the year round. This particular batched was laid in 1988, but if other years are of the same caliber, this is one every one should try.

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Monday, August 13 2007

Dalvenie

Price

UNKNOWN/750ML

Bought at

S.A.Q (Montreal)

This bottle came to me as a belated birthday present from my mother upon my recent visit to Montreal. As it is now nearing extinction, I will set down my thoughts regarding the content. The smell is light and airy, reminding one of a sweet ocean breeze, when smelt a few miles inland: light notes of malt, grains, damp sand, seaweed and woodfire combining to lend it a magic perfume. The taste is at first very pungent with malt, sweetened by a drop of honey, and deepened by an extremely slight hint of charcoal, something quite unusual at this point of a tasting. So far, this is a wonderful experience;, sadly, upon reaching mid-palate, where most Whiskies open up, this fellow just gives you more malt, some greens, and maybe a touch of the complexity found in the smell. Even the finish is pretty much the same, with some oakenness thrown in. The over-all effect is nice, but not impressive: rather more like a naive country girl with bloom in her cheeks than a ravishing nymph. However, I should state that Whiskies which are lighter have more difficulty finding favour with me, probably because my coarse palate cannot appreciate all their subtleties: someone with finer tastes, or with a leaning to lighter malts might find this Whisky marvelous, where it leaves me unimpressed. For all my criticisms, this remains a very well crafted drink. Since age tends to lighten Whisky, I wonder whether I might not appreciate a slightly younger version more.

Dalvenie seems to be little known, at least if google is to be trusted, as one will get many other results before it shows up. It also is only one letter away from Balvenie, another Highland Whisky, which I have had the immense pleasure to review in these pages almost a year ago, probably an unfortunate thing for a malt trying to make it on the side tables of the world.

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Bowmore (17 years)

Price

$71.75

Bought at

Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation (Halifax)

For my birthday before last, almost fifteen months ago now, my dear one encouraged me to treat myself by spending rather more than I would have and buying a bottle of this. I am quite a fan of the twelve-year-old Bowmore, though I have not yet reviewed it here, but do not buy it very often, as it tends to be just that extra ten dollars more than my budget allows, so it definitely was a treat. Somehow, I have managed to keep a drop of this for future review and always deferred the review, even through a change of apartment and a few changes of lifestyle (incidentally, fifteen months is the longest a bottle has ever survived in my vicinity, which must be ascribed to my awe for this particular drink). But, here I am now, about to open the bottle and write down my thoughts on the little it still contains. Though I have not reviewed the twelve-year-old counterpart, I will make reference to some of its characteristics where I deem it necessary or helpful.

At first sniff, this Whisky exudes an ocean, or, maybe more accurately, a beach smell, full with salt and wind, foam and rock, but also with a whiff or earth and conifers to remind us of the forest nearby. Underlying all this, is a mild sweetness, that, perhaps, of an apple orchard not very far inland, and, overlaying it, is the delicate smoke of peat fires striving to drive the damp from clustered houses. Then, on the heels of the visions the smell evoked comes the taste… The start is quite amazing for an Islay, even more so if one has experienced the bigness of this Whisky's younger sibling: it is pleasantly malty, though less pungent than a Speyside might be, with nice touches of fruits (mostly the apples of the smell) and vanilla. After that first impression, the mouthful comes to the blossoming point (mid-palate) and these initial delicate flavours are replaced by something much bigger, clamouring of the sea in motion: the taste is strong and keen enough to carry one straight to the shore in a slight drizzle to listen to the crashing waves and taste the salt on one's lips. After this climax, the taste recedes into a graceful finish of peat which, though it makes its presence sternly felt, is in no way overwhelming; it is at this point that oak gently pokes its nose out for a seat by the fire, accompanied by the spectre of the earlier malt, to haunt the palate for a minute longer before slowly fading away. What more can I say but that it is Beauty in a bottle?

The younger Bowmore as its points; it is wild and lusty with peat, oak and other straightforward tastes, this is quite different, full of lightness and subtlety, and one should not expect to know the one because he knows the other, though both are beyond excellent. If you are a lover of older Islays and subtle, complex tastes, you simply must try this.

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Lagavulin Distiller's Edition (16 years)

Price

UNKNOWN/1L

Bought at

UNKNOWN (France)

My father gave me a bottle of this at a little reunion upon a conjoint visit to Montreal, I from Halifax, and he from France. I was thrilled, as this was one of the last Islays (there are only six in all, if memory serves right) I had not tasted. The smell is nice and light-hearted, with rather less peat and more sweetness than one is used to in Islay malts: it is reminiscent of a time where one might have sat by the kitchen fire whilst cherry preserves were being made. Upon hitting the tongue, the taste is quite mild and light, leaning far more towards the malty and floral than the peaty, with an airy elegance which is quite appealing and certainly uncommon in Islays. The peat kicks in at mid-palate, the taste becoming quite big and far darker with overtones of charred wood and chocolate, creating a wonderful contrast to the aforementioned lightness. Throughout, the sherry finish is quite obvious: in the first place, in gives a sweet, fruity nose to the first, lighter phase, in the second, it imparts a fairly long sweetish finish, which is my least favourite feature of this drink. Don't get me wrong, I like this Whisky and am sad to see the bottle die, but, at the same time, I can't help feeling that the sherry finish impairs rather than enhances it, and am curious to see what plain, twelve year-old Lagavulin might be like. I would deem it an excellent choice for those seeking an introductory Islay, or for those with more sensitive palates, though my father's violent expostulations upon tasting it that he by far prefered wine leads me to think that others might harbour a somewhat different opinion.

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Old Malt Cask (23 years)

Price
Paid Approx. $40/750ML
Bought at
Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation (Halifax)

In March, right around my birthday, the NSLC decided to offer me a huge present by ridding itself of its holidays specials to make place for its summer specials, sometimes offering astounding price cuts. This allowed me to buy not one, but two special bottles for the price one usually pays for one of the more affordable single malts reviewed in these pages. This is one of the two, the other should be reviewed shortly. Since I am a Highland Park fan, though you wouldn't think so, if you knew how seldom I drink it (it's not exactly cheap), I could not pass the opportunity to taste this old malt issued from the same distillery which produces it.

The smell is fragrant with sweet herbs and spices, thyme and fennel, to name a few, as well as wet grass and green apples. A smoky character rounds out the smell and balances out what could become too sweet. It's fresh and has a zest to it, though the higher alcohol content (50%) makes it difficult to smell it for long stretches. Taste-wise it is a surprisingly straightforward Whisky. The taste is malty, nutty and creamy, very rich, with some smoky overlays to further deepen that impression. There is a whiff of cherries mid-palate, as well as a slight, sweet finish of berries, crowned with a light, smoky bitterness at the very end. On the whole, this is a good Whisky, but fairly one-dimensional. I would not want to give the impression that it is bad, because it isn't, but it is, to me, lacking in depth and complexity. This is the first time I taste such an old Whisky and I had expected more surprises; now, though, I wonder whether it has not perhaps gone over the hill and into its decline and wish I could taste a slightly younger version. So, in short, a highly drinkable Whisky, but nothing I would pay extra for. The other Whisky which I bought at an absurdly low price and will review next, though younger, is by far more remarkable. Stay tuned...

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Thursday, April 05 2007

Glenmorangie (10yrs)

Price

$41.03/750ML

Bought at

Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation (Halifax)

A very well known Whisky which I had somehow managed to ignore until now; but at last, in a quest for a new single malt under $50, I was compelled to give it a try. The smell is light and clean, wreathed in honey with hints of oranges. The taste begins sweet in the mouth, malty, perfumed with flowers, fennel, and a whiff of the sea; it then opens up and deepens, keeping those self-same flavours, but intensified, adding to them a feeling not unlike that of autumn sunlight reflecting upon the sea: the effect is very rich and lush. But, as this taste evolves and the time to swallow comes, the slightly green taste imparted by the oak, as well as a hint of peat, merge in, making the rich richer still, and marrying together to bring about a finish reminiscent of smoke and mint. But, perhaps most intriguing of all with this Whisky is the freshness of pears which comes in at about the same time as the flavours broaden (usually as the mouthful travels towards the back of the mouth), taking a richness which might otherwise have been very littoral and making it more airy in nature. This pear flavour is often found in Irish Whiskies, but it is the first time I encounter such a bold instance of it in Scotch; the effect is both pleasing and addictive. Such sweet flavours and dazzling pyrotechnics obviously make GlenMorangie a very palatable drink, but what really makes it worthy of praise, in my opinion, is the way in which they come together to produce a very well balanced experience. From sniff to aftertaste, this Whisky is elegant and the experience it provides is very pleasant and undoubtedly memorable: it is not so hard to find a tasty Whisky, it is rather harder to find one that is so well balanced. For $47 (with taxes), this is a steal. In fact, it has just slipped in second place behind Balvenie as my favourite Scotch, excluding Islays, which I keep in a category of their own.

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Bruichladdich "16th Hole Augusta" (14yrs)

Price

Approx. $80/750ML; paid around $40

Bought at

Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation (Halifax)

I was fortunate enough to pick up a bottle of this during a pre-holidays clearance sale at the liquor store for a significantly reduced price. It is a numbered, special run (18000 bottles), as I understand it, which makes it all the more interesting; though, as I have not had the opportunity to taste their more regular offerings, I will not be able to say exactly in what way it is special.

This Whisky definitely has an elegant, even delicate, smell for an Islay, the peat serving as backdrop for malt, caramel, and a touch of sea to refresh the nose. It all starts gently, with a silky texture and a creamy taste of malt, strengthened, perhaps, by a hint of vanilla floating around the mouth, then it expands to include a certain oaken sharpness which comes just in time to balance out the sweetness of the malt; but it is just before swallowing that the taste truly opens up, exploding into a kaleidoscope of salt and sweet, as though a great wave had come to crash on a shore where sweet herbs and fragrant flowers grew, perhaps whilst being caressed by a light breeze laden with the scent of distant lands, where orange groves are. Upon swallowing is when the peat really steps out of this tapestry of tastes and stands proud, accompanied and abated by a sweet fruity breath, which I surmise comes from the sherry cask finish this Whisky has undergone. This is a damned fine Whisky; most of my complaints are with the marketing behind it, which can seem a little tacky at times, but the drink itself, at least in this case, is beyond reproach. It is certainly lighter than many Islays I have tasted, but it is also slightly older, and it returns in complexity what it may seem to some to lack in power.

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Benromach Traditional Malt

Price

$6.41/50ML, $45.79/700ML

Bought at

Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation (Halifax)

I picked up a sampler of this Whisky upon one of my more recent visits to the liquor store, curious of what I would find within this adorable bottle, as I had never encountered this distillery before. Well, it certainly smells good, with a more pungent perfume than what I would normally expect from a Speyside, with peat fairly strong and a hint of some smoked sweet wood, cherry perhaps; the effect is very refreshing, being somewhat reminiscent of a deep breath of fresh air taken in the heart of the country on a quiet night. The taste is somewhat of a surprise, following that smell; it is much lighter than one might expect and not very smoky in comparison. The first thing that strikes the tongue is a saltiness which one finds occasionally in some Scotch, though more usually Islays, Then follows a very interesting blend of the more usual Speyside characteristics, such as a more flowery bouquet, a fairly light body, and a certain leathery taste about mid-palate, along with very unique characteristics, such as a heavier peatiness and a slightly more earthy taste. The whole experience concludes with a finish strongly laden with peat and smoke strewn with flowers which certainly does not go gentle into that good night. I find this Whisky very interesting and I would certainly like to try a full-size bottle of it; it straddles the line between Speysides and Islays in much the same way that Connemara does for the world of Irish Whiskies, and, in fact, some of its characteristics, especially the saltiness and over all refreshing effect remind me strongly of this latter fellow. If you're looking for a Speyside Scotch with a pleasantly schizoid personality, this one is definitely worth a try.

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Saturday, August 26 2006

Balvenie 10 Yr. Old Founder's Reserve Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Price

$39.90/750ML

Bought at

Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation (Halifax)

I first bought Balvenie when looking for a new, affordable single malt Scotch to try for the new year and being bewildered by the vast array of choices and price range available to me; I chose this Whisky because of its boast that it was hand crafted in a small distillery, because of its packaging, and because of its relatively low price when compared to other single malts. Balvenie comes in the traditional tube, but the bottle has a very appealing shape which makes it special, and the stopper, rather than being made of the more usual plastic, is made of wood! Even before opening the bottle, one can smell the wood and lacquer, and one knows that this will be a truly sensual experience. The liquid itself smells wonderful, ripe with grain and tall grass as well as discrete whispers of cherries, all of it lending the smell a lushness which is hard to resist. In the mouth, it has a thick, rich consistency and a quiet, elegant demeanor; it starts very gently, fresh like spring water at the dawn of time, filled with the aroma of malt and flowers; as the liquid is drawn further in the mouth, however, it thickens further still and gains in character, acquiring flavours of peat, leather and sweet wood. As a matter of fact, and though it seems fanciful, I often feel that, at the time of swallowing, the Whisky tastes somewhat like that wooden stopper smells, which is, believe me, wonderful. The aftertaste combines both oak and peatiness to provide the drinker with a lingering memory of what a pleasant, nay pleasurable, experience he as just had. I so far have felt that I have done a fair and useful job of describing the spirits reviewed on this blog, but I honestly feel that my descriptive powers are out-classed by this particular Whisky. The best testimonial I can make of its all around quality is that I ended up buying a second bottle (which I am currently sorrowfully putting out of its misery) even before the first one was empty, and that it has surpassed Glen Fiddich as my all-time favourite single malt Scotch, excluding Islay malts: if I had to buy a case of anything, it would be of this Whisky. I have also had the privilege to taste the 12 year version of this Whisky whilst paying a visit to Bishop's Cellar: it was a very, very pleasant drink, as well crafted as its younger sibling and even more subtle, but whereas the ten year version is just right for me, I found that one slightly too light for my taste, though still delicious. If you are a Whisky-lover, especially a Highlands-lover, and haven't tried this one yet, then you haven't lived.

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Friday, August 25 2006

Ardbeg (10 years)

Price

$51.12

Bought at

Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation (Halifax)

Ardbeg is an Islay Scotch I picked up some eight months ago when my mother was coming for a visit and I wanted to buy something special for the occasion. The nice bottle comes in a sturdy, square cardboard box, rather than the more usual tube, but does not display the foppishness which some other Scotch, the good and the bad, sometimes flaunt. The product itself comes dressed in a delicious smell of smoke, orange peels, and some hints of banana and vanilla, all contributing to make the drinker feel at home before even the first sip. The taste starts light and mild, scented with malt and overlays of smoke, as well as perhaps a very slight touch of iron, giving the first encounter a blood-like quality which is to me not at all unpleasant. Past that point, the taste quickly expands and flourishes into a wide range of flavours, including the fruits and vanilla mentioned earlier in the smell as well as cinnamon and a hint of salt. As the draught is swallowed and the taste turns to aftertaste, all of these flavours subside into a pleasant blend of oak and peat, accompanied with some caressing sweetness and smoke. All of the above taken in at once makes of Ardbeg a very enjoyable Islay which, if you can afford it, will make your evenings most homely, most especially as the autumnal rain drums upon your roof and windows.

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Tuesday, April 25 2006

Grants Ale Cask Reserve

Price

$29.00/750ML

Bought at

Bishops Cellar (Lower Water St., Halifax)

Grants Ale Cask is a version of Grants that has been matured in, as you may have surmised, a cask previously used to contain ale; as such, you should probably read my review of the original product first. This Whisky smells remarkably like some ales I have encountered, dark and meaty, with overtones of honey; of the original smell of Grants, there only remains the malt, which serves as a backdrop to these other, much stronger smells. First of all, the rich texture of Grants is kept, if not increased, which is a very favourable point; the taste is very strongly affected by the ale, much more than I had expected from other experiences with finishes: the taste starts out full and round and just keeps going that way, with malt and honey, soon supplemented with the chocolate present in the original Grants, then ending with a touch of that meat present in the smell, though, thankfully, nowhere near as strong. Many of the more subtle characteristics present in the original product, notably the smoke and peat, are masked in this Whisky, but what it loses in subtlety, it gains in distinctive character. The result is unique and provides a memorable drinking experience which is lacking in the original Grants, and I personally find it very enjoyable, though perhaps somewhat harder to drink in large quantity. However, I would hesitate to recommend it to all scotch drinkers, mainly because of the very powerful smell which might be offensive to some people; but if you already like both Grants and some of the more pungent ales, this Whisky is certainly worth a try: for $30, this might make for an inexpensive, yet special drink.

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Sunday, April 23 2006

Grants Family Reserve

Price

$21.12/750ML

Bought at

Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation (Halifax)

Grants is one of the first blends I was exposed to and is one I still enjoy from time to time. Glen Fiddich is one of its main components and it takes so much after it that it would be worthwhile to read my review on that Whisky for reference. Grants smells strongly of malt and soft leather, perhaps with a hint of cherries to elevate and freshen it. In the mouth, it feels nice and rich, starting with malt and evolving into chocolate, which gradually thickens with some slight smoke, a hint of peat, and the grittiness of the oak, all conspiring to complement the aforementioned chocolate. This is a good, smooth blend with no harshness or jarring points whatsoever, and its rich thickness makes it a very pleasant drink indeed, for the money; however, it lacks strong defining characteristics, and, as such, is to me more of a good reference blend, than one to be chosen for its unique taste. If you're crazy about Glen Fiddich but fear the guilt (or possibly recriminations from your household accountant) resulting from gobbling down single malt too freely, this Whisky is your friend.

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